Category Archive for "Blog"

Pectre Ice Hooks for Niagara

I’ll share more about the Niagara climb once it all settles out a bit, but I’ve had a lot of questions about the proto ice gear I used, and I have a few minutes so here’s some quick info: My

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A simple fix: Frontpoints and Tibialis Anterior

I’ve been guiding and teaching a fair number of clinics this winter, and as always I’m learning a lot from the people I get out with. Most of what I know about ice and mixed climbing comes from teaching; if

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Vol Bivy Commentary

I’m on a paragliding expedition right now, I thought some people might be interested in the thinking that went into how we’re approaching the trip. Some “Vol Bivy” personal history, kinda boring unless you’re really into flying paragliders and think

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Reader Question: Manual Labour or Office Job for Mountaineering?

Hi Ryan, This is an interesting question (question below), thanks, mind if I strip it down a bit and use some form of my response on my blog? In any case, short answer below, and keep on getting out, say

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Strength Question

I often receive emails about training, sports, life, good stuff I like. Here’s a recent one that made me think, thought others might enjoy it too. For those who didn’t read my post on what four exercises I consider critical

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Spring Bow Valley Linkup

Spring is technically defined as the equinox, when the day and the night are of equal length. In most places this means flowers, rainstorms, and green grass for the easter bunnies to munch. Here in the Canadian Rockies, to quote

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You’ve got kids. How do you handle taking mountain risks?

A while back I said I would answer reader questions as posts. Here’s a good one I received today, and and an answer. Thanks Bruno. On 2014-04-01, at 12:48 AM, Bruno wrote: Hi Will, We have communicated a few times

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Well, what can you do, part 2..

Over the years I’ve watched a lot of people in extreme situations, and their reactions to those situations. I’ve watched people freeze up on the controls of their paragliders and die when they hit the hillside. I’ve watched paraglider pilots

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Thermal Detection on the ground?

I receive a fair number of questions about ice climbing and flying, and often write back to people. I think I’ll start putting more of the answers up on here for others to comment on as well. Here’s one I

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The Steep Climbing Rhythm: Set, coil, spring, repeat.

Ice climbing is often seen as somehow “unique” in that its movement patterns are alien, inscrutable, and different than good technique in rock climbing. This isn’t true. For steep rock or ice climbing the rhythm is, with refinements and variations,

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