Category Archive for "Blog"

You’ve got kids. How do you handle taking mountain risks?

A while back I said I would answer reader questions as posts. Here’s a good one I received today, and and an answer. Thanks Bruno. On 2014-04-01, at 12:48 AM, Bruno wrote: Hi Will, We have communicated a few times

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Well, what can you do, part 2..

Over the years I’ve watched a lot of people in extreme situations, and their reactions to those situations. I’ve watched people freeze up on the controls of their paragliders and die when they hit the hillside. I’ve watched paraglider pilots

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Thermal Detection on the ground?

I receive a fair number of questions about ice climbing and flying, and often write back to people. I think I’ll start putting more of the answers up on here for others to comment on as well. Here’s one I

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The Steep Climbing Rhythm: Set, coil, spring, repeat.

Ice climbing is often seen as somehow “unique” in that its movement patterns are alien, inscrutable, and different than good technique in rock climbing. This isn’t true. For steep rock or ice climbing the rhythm is, with refinements and variations,

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Well, what can you do…

“Well, what can you do. Way it is….” No question mark at the end, flat acceptance. I’ve heard that phrase about late trains, bad traffic, poor behaviour, taxes, and life in general. It’s a fatalistic acceptance of a shitty situation,

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Riding the big icicle

My friend John Freeman rode a big icicle. Good video piece. Remember that free-hanging ice almost always breaks right at the TOP, just where it connects to the rock. That’s where it’s under the greatest strain from the hanging load,

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Overhead Hazard: Helmcken Falls 2014

Overhead Hazard 200M, Helmcken Falls, Wells Gray Provincial Park, BC,  January 28th to February 13, 2014. Will Gadd, John Freeman, Sarah Hueniken, Katie Bono. M Hard, Alpine Chaos Grade. Approach: From the viewpoint for Helmcken Falls walk toward the falls

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Three Drytooling tips, one ice tip

Drytooling is suddenly hot again. New crags, new tools, new attitudes, it’s definitely going off in a way I haven’t seen in a decade. I’m getting a lot of email from people asking questions. The following are distilled replies, and

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Comp Psyche, More Bozeman climbing.

Competition Mindset Important competitions are always big experiences for me. I’m there to do my best with what I’ve got, and I become incredibly focused on doing that. The “stress” meter is always pegged; sometimes that stress can be positive,

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Arc’teryx Bozeman Ice Festival Recap

It’s been a week of Bozeman, and it’s been a really good week. I first climbed in Bozeman about 15 years ago. I was on a season-long tour of basically every ice festival and event in North America, and couldn’t

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