Blog

7th February 2017

Ice and Rock Grades, A Review and Perspective

As climbers we love grades. The bigger the number the better, the closer to the line of personally possible/not possible the better, and the harder we have to fight to succeed the better we ... Read more »

12th January 2017

Note to self: How not to fall off ice climbing

The local injury total so far this season is roughly six broken legs/ankles, a serious and unresolved head injury, a couple of lengthy whippers resulting in various other injuries, and a few... Read more »

31st December 2016

Spring and Sag, a suspension view of ice climbing movement.

Good technique on ice is like good technique in any sport, it just makes things more fun and opens up more options. I see more good technique in ice climbing than I ever have before, mostly ... Read more »

27th July 2016

Looking Fear In The Eye

"Fear is the mind-killer." Frank Herbert, Dune. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRLyGwSE8-A When I speak or do media interviews I'm often asked how I deal with fear. There is an expect... Read more »

3rd May 2016

Five Ideas for Fitness

I recently wrote a Anyhow, here's the link, I'd welcome your thoughts on it. I'm slowly chewing away on a book on the subject, your comments can help make it better, cheers.... Read more »

29th March 2016

Social Media: A Bold New Plan.

I use social media and love consuming it, but I am deeply dissatisfied with how it looks, what it says, and especially how I create it. I haven't posted on Instagram in two weeks because i... Read more »

27th March 2015

Ten Training Tips for Lifelong Athletes

I'm 48. I just had the best 12 months of my athletic career. Crazed months of travel, flying, climbing, kids, speaking, guiding, writing, repeat with more events and less time than I wanted.... Read more »

17th February 2015

Pectre Ice Hooks for Niagara

I'll share more about the Niagara climb once it all settles out a bit, but I've had a lot of questions about the proto ice gear I used, and I have a few minutes so here's some quick info: ... Read more »

14th January 2015

A simple fix: Frontpoints and Tibialis Anterior

I've been guiding and teaching a fair number of clinics this winter, and as always I'm learning a lot from the people I get out with. Most of what I know about ice and mixed climbing comes f... Read more »

31st July 2014

Vol Bivy Commentary

I'm on a paragliding expedition right now, I thought some people might be interested in the thinking that went into how we're approaching the trip... Some "Vol Bivy" personal history, kinda... Read more »

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