Blog

3rd September 2013

Anchor Clipping

Anchor Clipping, Direct Anchor Belays (edited Sept 4). Also some newer thought here thanks to Kirk Mauthner at Basecamp Innovations. The bottom line is this: I've played with factor-two fal... Read more »

8th July 2013

Working too hard to climb hard

My irrepressible and unrepressed friend ... Read more »

29th May 2013

Performing better (while older or younger)

This spring I've put a fair number of days into sport climbing, and it has paid off. I'm climbing close--but not there yet--as hard on rock as I was in my mid-20s, even though I'm now 46. Ye... Read more »

18th May 2013

Olympians and Speaking, Physical Literacy, New Blog Policy, Travel

It's been a while since I've posted on here. Twenty plus speaking engagements, some life turmoil, travel, climbing, writing, moving, etc. etc. it all put a crimp in the time I had for this b... Read more »

4th March 2013

Ice Breaks: Don’t be in the way of it as it falls!

I'm on a bit of a "negative" blog posting pattern lately, but I keep seeing some rather, ah, well, stupid behaviour out there that I feel the need to comment on because it's just so totally ... Read more »

27th February 2013

Careful at the top…

Everybody thinks it's the bottom of the free-hanging or free-standing ice features that you have to be the most gentle with, but they almost always break catastrophically at the top, where t... Read more »

26th February 2013

Hanging belays on ice quick notes

Be careful sending me emails, you may get turned into a blog post, ha ha! Here's an interesting "hanging" belay on ice, maybe done to practice hanging belays? It has a few interesting thing... Read more »

31st January 2013

X vs. T: Why the old X technique is inferior

I recently received the following email: "Dear Will, I read your book, and found it quite inspiring and full of good tips. I just wanted to ask you one question. In your book and videos, yo... Read more »

16th January 2013

Falling On Ice and Mixed Belaying

A few friends sent me links to this video a while back: Now, as most readers likely know, I firmly believe falling on ice is generally a very bad idea. This video shows a guy test... Read more »

26th December 2012

How to Hold an Ice Tool: Three grips.

How to hold an ice tool: Three grips. note--I just shot a little video of this, I'll try to add it shortly, having issues. Until then here's one I shot two years ago--it doesn't have the ni... Read more »

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