Blog

20th May 2011

Seasonal Confusion Disorder, randomness

I can't decide whether to climb, paraglide, mountain bike, run, kayak, or go speed flying. Hell, the skiing is still pretty good too! And there's a fence to paint, winter debris to pick up, ... Read more »

27th April 2011

Eat this

I've received a few emails lately asking about "Sports Performance Diets." To sum up my philosophy on food for sports: You are what you eat, but the human body is amazing at processing just ... Read more »

3rd April 2011

Doing it right.

Here's a complicated route with difficult gear on bad rock, and the guys keep it together well enough to re-climb pitches multiple times etc. I'd call this "not sucking," and doing a solid j... Read more »

25th March 2011

How not to suck

The discussion on "Ice climbing is NOT rock climbing" has generally been useful; I learned a few things for sure, and I appreciate Jeff (the videographer) and the guys in the video taking it... Read more »

24th March 2011

Mail Bag: Tied Off Screws

First, sorry for the delay in posting. I've been on a speaking tour, an 80-hour first aid course and some other busy sports actopm. But all good!I answer a fair number of questions about ice... Read more »

22nd March 2011

Ice Climbing is NOT rock climbing.

17th March 2011

Gallery of Norwegian Ice Shots

Last year Andreas Spak and I climbed some big rigs in Norway, along with Christian Pondella and his camera. A few ... Read more »

16th March 2011

The Review Issue Way back in the day (mid-nineties) I was the primary equipment reviewer for Rock&Ice magazine. I loved that job for three reasons: First, I could get whatever gear I... Read more »

16th March 2011

Gloves: What to wear at -30

Apparently I'm to blame for some recent frostbite. Here's the story, as relayed by a friend, about another friend who is a guide. The guide and client are climbing a popular route in K-Count... Read more »

14th March 2011