Which brings me to the endless ascent. The goal is to climb as much ice as I can in 24 hours, and raise money for something that matters, the dZi foundation. Why climb ice for 24 hours? Because I don’t know what will happen. I know what will happen when I go out ice climbing in general, but I have no idea what’s going to happen after about 12 hours of ice climbing.

Everyone wants to know, “How much ice do you think you can climb?” Warning, longer answer ahead… In my training I’ve done some days around 2,100M/6600 feet, or roughly two El Capitans. I’ve been training in mostly 20-minute blocks; longer blocks would be better probably, but when it’s butt cold 20 minutes is long enough to get your heart rate way up, and your belayer to still be warm. So I go like hell for 20 minutes, the belayer stays warm pulling rope in, we switch as fast as reasonably possible, repeat for up to eight hours. Plus the Plice sessions…

In roughly ten or tweleve 20-minute sessions with some bonus laps I have done 50+ laps on a 35M/120 foot grade 5+ climb (Tokkum Pole). But that’s spread out over roughly seven hours, so that’s a little under 300M/an hour when counted against the total time. It’s about twice that on an “hourly” basis. This is of course extrapolation; the difference between doing 20-minute blocks for eight hours and climbing for 24 hours is of course HUGE.

I’ve spent a lot of time looking at the results for 24-hour ski races, mountain bike races and other 24-hour events. Things definitely slow way down after about 12 hours (with rare exceptions from people who really, really know how to pace themselves). And that’s going to be the trick–pacing myself so I go slow enough at the start. I’ll really want to go hard, but that will NOT be helpful. I’ve done a lot of very long “days” in the mountains, it’s definitely a rule that the slower you go at the start the faster you go at the end. Even going too hard for an hour or two early in the day will ruin you late in the day…

So how much vertical is possible? My biggest training day so far has been about 3100M/6600 feet. Double that would be about 150M/500 feet an hour for 24 hours. That’s my first goal: 3800M, or about 12,000 feet. That would be a HUGE day in my book. I’ve never heard of anyone climbing that much. Someone probably has, and that’s cool ’cause it would be big. Skiing, sure, I’ve done close to that, and done easy climb/scrambles/traverses that had around 3,000M of vertical gain (that took 12 hours just to go up…). Vertical water ice is a lot more intense than skiing up or even easy mountaineering style climbing/scrambling. I often hike 1,000M/3000 feet to the paraglider launch behind my house; that’s casual compared to climbing near-vertical ice. I didn’t think the difference would be so large to be honest, but it is. The unknown strikes again.

So there’s the math. I figure I can do 3,000M most likely. It will hurt, and that’s something like 70 laps out of the canyon. Ouray is obviously in the USA, so you in feet I’d be stoked to do 12,000 feet measured in local units. 15,000 would be huge I think, but that’s almost triple my biggest training day…

And when I run all these numbers and think about the unknown it always comes down to this: if I’m not moving I’m not moving. All the “exterior” numbers are just that, and in a way irrelevant. What matters is pacing myself well, working with the great group of people I’ve got helping, and grinding away. I know I’m going to feel lousy, my tendons will hurt, my shoulders will ache, everything is going to suck so bad at some point that I’m going to want to quit so much… The trick will be to keep grinding. The math? Can’t control that. Move.

To me belaying is binary. On/off. Black and white. I much, much prefer the words “ON!” and “OFF!” to this “Secure…” business, and I really wish Canadian climbing schools and guides would stop using “Secure.” I have simply seen too many climbers arrive at a belay, clip into it, say “Secure” and then expect to be lowered off while their belayers are off having a smoke or whatever. “Secure” also sounds a lot like “need beer,” “send gear,” “Oh Dear,” “Can’t hear,” etc. etc. “OFF!” is a terse, single-word sound that’s hard to confuse with anything, and has only one meaning, ever.

“Secure” has an implied meaning; the belayer has to figure out what the climber means. “OFF!” from the climber means he’s OFF, no more belay required. The meaning is clear in the word. Saying “Secure” is like yelling, “Falling Object!” Yelling, “ROCK!” makes a hell of a lot more sense, and that’s why we use it. “OFF!” is like “ROCK!” The meaning is clear in the word, you don’t have to ponder what is meant (unless you’re a linguistics nerd or philosopher).

Safe climbing with a partner is often about communication, and many climbing accidents occur because of poor communication. Why use a vague word when there is a concise alternative?

“Secure” is also rather wussy, a sort of Morrisey-style word that sounds kinda whiny and unsure of itself, like a self-help session for insecure leaders. I mean, if you’re “secure” now then you must have been “insecure” earlier, yeah? Sorry about that, get over it and use “ON!” and “OFF!” for god’s sake.

I’m on a mission to get this word chucked out of our Canadian climbing lexicon. “Secure” is a word thought up by an verbally insecure desk-riding bureaucrat. “OFF!” is a word thought up by a climber ’cause it works.

OFF!

Yesterday morning was really dark for me. Another friend gone. This shit is getting really old. But we went out anyhow, and used black humor, sarcasm, anger, and physical effort to burn away some of the black cloud. I would not have gone yesterday without Guy in my head; he wouldn’t even have bitched about the temperature. I tried not to. I’ll write more about Guy Lacelle eventually, but not right now. The man deserves some thoughtful words and not my usual slap-the-spaghetti-on-the-wall-and-see-what sticks writing style (holy hyphen, don’t think I needed all those). Here is a video about Guy’s accident scene primarily from a snow-science standpoint, but very well done. Thanks to Doug and the others for doing this video.

I’ve been training with a horde of different people; one of the things I love about climbing is going out with a crew of people and having fun. Doing long climbs with just one person is great too, but there’s something to be said for the social aspect of climbing and bullshitting summer or winter.

Today is a “reset” day. My house, garage, truck, business, and pretty much anything else I can think of or see from this table is a complete gong show. Nothing really bad, it’s just that from where I sit I can see three duffels from three different trips that need unpacking, there are four ropes and three pairs of boots (all mine, crazy!) drying by the fire, and I can’t count how many jackets, gloves and hats are loose, along with empty single malt bottles and RB shots. It’s like a delivery truck to MEC (REI for y’all down south) crashed and was raided by tribe of feral drunk monkeys. I gotta get this scene back under control before the rest of the family comes home.

Today it was -23 when we left the house, and I don’t think it warmed up much. If I didn’t have the endlessascent.org goal for the dZi I would not have gone climbing, it’s just too cold. But in one month it’s game on in Ouray, and I do not want to be found lacking. So I trained, fortunately with a great crew of motivated people. But around 5:00 in the evening it was getting dark, it was cold, and I’d pretty much had enough fun. We started running laps and climbing around 12:30 (we wanted to let it warm up some, it’s COLD here lately!). So, after four and half hours, I was feeling like a warm fire and a cold beer would be a great combo. In Ouray I’m going to have to go for another 19 or so hours. Not to whine, but I’m scared of what’s gonna happen. Can’t imagine how ice climbing is going to feel after even 12 hours…

I’ve done some big links of ice climbs, but a lot of the time on those links you’re resting. Belaying, eating, driving, hiking, reasonably simple stuff. In Ouray it’s going to be climb, lower back down, climb, repeat for 24 hours. I’ll take some breaks to eat and whatever, but damn is that going to be hard! Fortunately I have some good people to help out from the dZi Foundation and around the world, but I just feel the weight of it all. This is good I think, pressure is motivational for me even when it’s mainly self-produced pressure…

I’ve done a fair amount of “crazy” stuff in life, but this is a whole new level of personal abuse. The only thing to do is to keep training, ice the damaged parts regularly, and do my best. Yeah!

The reason for all of this specific training is the Endless Ascent effort, to benefit the dZi foundation. The site is live, very nice work from Faction Media, thanks!

I’m in Whistler briefly for a show then back home to train more. 36 days to go, yeah!