Blog
4th December 2006
A few people have suggested I start a second career as a "professional questioner of commonly held climbing beliefs." That sounds almost fun, but the reality is that I'm mainly just sharing ...
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30th November 2006
Jim Ewing is a bud of mine and the head rope guru over at Sterling. We've been emailing back and forth about single-rope impact forces vs. half-rope impact forces (as well as the discussion ...
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29th November 2006
It's no secret to regular readers of this blog (and thanks to those who have sent in comments on elbows, ropes and falling!) that I really don't like George Bush and his crew of Neocon nutte...
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27th November 2006
This discussion on falling distances with respect to clipping position is down there somewhere in the comments column, thought I'd post it as a new entry. I'm getting some email on this as w...
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24th November 2006
Anchors: Cordelette, Sliding X, or? A brief history of anchor building (with lots left out...)When I started seriously climbing in the early 80s most of us weren't thinking all that deeply ...
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20th November 2006
The ice season is in full swing here--it's been a bit of an odd November so far, very warm days (+8 Canadian here today, that's about +50 US) alternating with good periods of colder weather....
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15th November 2006
I've been working on a new slideshow for the ...
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12th November 2006
I've spent the last couple of Februarys in Norway, home of big ice and crazy potential. I really like the Norwegian vibe and the endless opportunities for big ice. My friend Andreas Spak has...
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10th November 2006
The posts on clipping and falling distances have generated a lot of email. Some graph paper will help in working the various clipping situations; we're all conditioned to think of the fall d...
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9th November 2006
Finally back at home after the film festival and participating in the film maker's seminar. The festival went really well, good fun, and the latest film we made, Aweberg, won a special jury ...
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