Date: April 27th, 2010
My own training is in a state of flux; I haven’t set new concrete new physical goals for the rest of the year, but I need to maintain some sort of solid base (and I just like being active, it’s not a burden at all). I know I’ll be kayaking a fair amount this spring, then flying my glider, then rock climbing more and more (I’ve got an idea for a big rock traverse in early fall…). I think Crossfit does a fine job of physical prep for kayaking, and actually kayaking will take care of any issues. Being a lot stronger won’t help for most actual kayaking, but it’s important to be strong enough (threshold strength) and also strong enough to comfortably wrestle boats on portages (it happens), move around on junk terrain, etc. etc. CF takes care of all that, combined with the general mountain beating I do with my kid on my back or whatever.
For rock climbing I need some more specific finger strength, as well as skill reinforcement and development. For bigger days I need to also develop a deeper base; big days get easier with big-day training for sure.
With all of the above in mind my base plan is to follow the CF WOD, but add in a few sessions a week of either cragging or bouldering in the gym (dropping the CF intensity on those days or skipping it or rolling a couple of workouts together at a reduced level). I don’t need to make this too specific yet; just moving and loading my forearms will be enough. Going climbing also involves walking to the crag here, so that will help with the long-day prep.
I also need to work my range of motion regularly; I have a yoga routine I often do before the CF WOD or climbing that really, really helps me move better. I’ve been doing that twice a week, it should be more like four times a week. I can tell when I’m not stretching and working my ROM enough, I get all creaky…
So that’s what I’m doing for the next month or so… I’ll start dropping CF workouts as the flying/paddling/climbing takes over the time slot.
Nutrition Thoughts: Form does follow function…
One “odd” thing about Crossfit is that, although the workouts burn a lot of energy per minute, they don’t burn all that much energy in total. Even including an extensive warmup the total calories used during the exercise are relatively low, especially if you are used to the calories burned in aerobic sports (mountain biking, ski touring, etc). Many Crossfitters are relatively sedentary outside of the WOD. If you look at the physique of most Crossfitters it’s more classically mesomorphic; some are very lean, but seldom in the same way that top aerobic athletes are lean. I don’t think being super-lean is much if any of an advantage for Crossfit; being leaner will help with pull-ups and other gymnastic stuff to a certain extent, but the return on effort expended to get leaner below, say, 10 or maybe 15 percent BF for guys, is likely pretty darn minimal. Yet I hear a lot of, “I want to be ripped!” in the CF world. Getting really ripped without burning a ton of calories with exercise is pretty hard to do; hence all the nutrition freak-outs in the CF forums, the “I ate a piece of pizza, I’m doomed!” comments. No, you’re not doomed, it likely doesn’t make any difference at all. But if you’re neurotic then you’re by definition not thinking straight, and you’ll think it is a problem… So CF athletes want to be super lean like high-aerobic burn athletes, but don’t do the exercise loads that tend to naturally result in a very lean physique, and as a result are often in a mental conflict. I’d say let form follow function, spend less energy worrying about body fat levels and more on good form and intensity (which is really hard to get if you’re not eating enough carbs…).
Something to think about anyhow. I always find it amazing how my body changes to fit the function I expect of it. If I just do CF I noticeably gain muscle (not saying much, ha ha!) and a little fat if I’m coming off a climbing season where I’m really lean, or lose a little fat if I’m coming out of kayaking where I tend to get a bit fatter. But form does follow function despite the massive efforts of people to fight this basic natural concept. Cheetahs aren’t fat, antelope aren’t fat, healthy seals are… People who sit on their asses and eat continually get fat. Go run 20K a day and you will get skinny… We are all animals.
Posted in: Blog
Date: April 14th, 2010

A few of the comments and emails I received on the last nutrition rant made me realize that I wasn’t as clear as I could be about what “listening to your body” meant.
Listening to what your body asks for doesn’t mean that you’ll always get the perfect nutrition signal at the perfect time (although sometimes you will). A little heads-up display window won’t pop up in your left eyeball that says, “231 calories of lean chicken, 120 of olive oil and a doughnut. Now!” Nope. But if you just pay a little bit of attention to how you feel and how you perform (whether you’re rocking a desk or a huge day out in the mountains) then you can start to really gain some understanding and self-knowledge (at least about food–although some treat diet as the path to enlightenment I’ve never found it to be so.).
I have tried the low fat, high protein diet, the high carb low fat diet, and about every single version of “performance diet” out there. But all my best athletic successes came when I started to record not calories or portions but simply what I ate, how I felt, and how I trained. Patterns started to emerge; eat a lot of sugar, feel great for a bit, then want more sugar. Hmmm…. Eat a can of tuna, feel good for longer, get hungry for sugar… Hmm… Exist on sugar and cans of tuna while climbing hard in the desert during the day, eat a huge mexi feast with extra sand at night, get ripped and feel pretty good. Hmmm…. Drink three coffees and eat a croissant for breakfast, not good. Drink one Red Bull 30 minutes before training, rip it up! Hmmm…. Eat all carbs and coffee for breakfast, go skiing, flail. Eat all protein for breakfast, go skiing, flail. Eat a huge egg, bean and cheese burrito with some extra sausage, bring another for a snack along with a some hard candies and a couple of pastries, ski hard all day, eat a lean steak with a side of veg and potatoes, feel great, yeah!
Eat a lot white bread pastries and climb hard, OK, but getting heavier and not recovering well… Hmmm… Live on soda pop, truck-stop sandwiches and potato chips for two days while driving across the country, feel like hell for a week. Do the same thing but while drinking loads of water, eating solid sandwiches on good bread and peanut butter with some fruit, still feel like hell but climb well after only one day of rest instead of four…
Cut out all alcohol, simple carbs, sleep eight hours a night, train like a machine and eat clean simple foods, get ripped, strong, invincible. Feel great for a month or two, send hard climbing projects, dominate, then crave beer and cookies, accept that a super-high performance level can’t be maintained forever, drink beer and eat some white-flour junk cookies, take a rest week or month, realize that pastry cookies make you feel lousy if you eat more than the very occasional cookie, back to fruit and beer, realize you like fruit more than junk cookies… Hmmm….
Spend a month in Venezuela going paragliding and never working out except for the occasional hike, but live on beer, beans, fruit, chicken and coffee, come back ripped and feeling great… Hmmm….
Count calories and blocks ’cause you want to get leaner, get leaner, success!!! Do this for a month or two or even a year, suddenly your performance starts falling apart (usually in about a month or less), you crave chocolate cake by the entire cake when you never did before, every bakery window is heaven, it all falls down. Every single time.
The above are all real examples of “listening to your body.” You can do it.
I don’t know a single fat person who doesn’t claim to be on a diet. How is that for an inditement of diets? In the last 40 years or so it’s become very fashionable to be on a “diet,” and yet obesity rates and pretty much every malfunction of the human body possible has skyrocketed. Think about that for a minute. On the other hand, I don’t know a single “best in the world” athlete in any sport who counts calories or measures their food, especially the athletes that dominate for long periods of time. Not one, and that’s because world-class athletes are not figuring out what not what to eat for lunch but how to kick ass (and CFers, go and watch the videos of Khalipa and Speal–they’re eating reasonably well, but definitely not formally “Zoning”).
Today my body seems to respond to the sport I’m doing. If I go ice climbing for two or more days I will literally double my calorie intake immediately because that’s the signal I’m getting in two-foot type across the inside of my eyeballs… If I start sport climbing I’ll want way less food, and tend to get leaner with time while dropping muscle mass out of my legs. If I’m just doing Crossfit and desk jockeying I’ll often crave huge amounts of protein, good carbs, and nice fat, but the total intake will be far lower compared to kayaking or ice season. I still gain muscle, but the caloric requirements of Crossfit are tiny compared to most of the other sports I do.
I can hear someone saying, “But you learned this through years of counting and measuring!” No, I truly learned as soon as got rid of the scale, stopped counting calories, and started really paying attention to how I felt and PERFORMED. Performance is the acid test of anything, including eating. I often get out in the mountains with “city-dwellers.” I can tell with laboratory precision when their blood sugar levels drop as we hike; their eyes dim, and usually they say something like, “I ate a good breakfast, I’m OK” when I suggest what they need is a candy bar right now. Yes, they had a good breakfast, but it was only good for sitting at a desk all day. They burned up that six blocks of nonsense in the first hour of hiking, and are dying for something to replace some glycogen ten minutes ago. But often they don’t want to eat ’cause they aren’t used to eating when hungry, they’re used to eating when the clock or their diet plans tell them to. And that’s the real tragedy. I sometimes ask people when the last time was that they can remember being truly hungry, or felt so stuffed they didn’t want any food at all. Most people can’t remember because they’re not eating when they’re hungry but when the clock or the diet says, “Eat now.” And that’s a tragedy in my opinion.
I am sure of few things in life, but I am sure that the more we diet, portion control and ignore what our bodies are signalling the harder and harder it will be to decode what your body says, and what you as a thinking sort of person are feeling from your toes to your brain. This is why all diets based on measuring, calorie counting or any other gimmicks are doomed to eventual failure. Why so many people, myself included, have played this ridiculous game is a mystery to me. Maybe people play it for the same reason we lift weights when we should be doing skill work; it’s easier to record numbers, see progress and think you’re improving then to actually go and do the skill work and measure that against the performance level? Eat. Listen. Train. Have fun. Perform. Cool.
Posted in: Blog
Date: April 2nd, 2010
For those of you who don’t know, Adam Ondra is among the very best sport climbers in the world. In terms of climbing the biggest collection of very hard routes fast he is arguably the best. In any case, he’s damn good. Here are his thoughts on training for climbing and eating for the same, lifted from the baurock.ru web site. I often talk with people about how to become better rock climbers; some get it, but most don’t want to believe the path forward for pure rock climbing technical performance is to train either in the climbing gym or on the rock by climbing. I train for a range of sports and my training reflects that range, but if you want to climb harder then climb rock, pretty much everything else is a waste of time. Or you can argue with Ondra’s success… Do check out the whole interview if you’re into hard rock climbing, it’s an interesting look into a prodigy’s mind.
10. Obviously, sending of the hardest routes in the world on natural rocks and victories in World Cups’s require hard training. How and where do you normally train? Do you have any special training programs or you train more by intuition? What is your typical training schedule and what do you pay the most of attention?
I train more or less just by climbing. How simple! I train on couple of small bouldering walls, where I train endurance and bouldering power as well. I rarely climb indoor with rope because there are not good walls enough in the city. The way I train depends on what I am training for. If I am preparing for bouldering, I do just lot of hard boulders. If I train endurance I do laps. I figure out usually 20move lap and try to climb 3 times. 60 moves are usually more than enough. Good trick how to become stronger is to use ONLY micro footholds for your feet. You work on your power and precise footwork at the same time. I do not train more than 3 days in a row.
11. Do you follow some certain nutrition diet or restrictions in your food?
I care about what I eat and try eat in some healthy way and to get enough proteins and vitamins, try to think what would be good dinner for fast recovery and so on, but I do not restrict myself in amount of food. When I am hungry, I eat. I have advantage that I can really a lot and I do not put on weight.
So, eat well, and train specifically for specific performance. Works for me; I’m in a “general” stage of my training, looking forward to tomorrow’s Crossfit workout, Tabata this. If you’ve never done CF it’s not a bad workout to start with if you drop the rounds to 16 or even eight instead of 32, or pay the price. If you’ve never done air squats before click this link. Main points: Weight on heels, everything lined up from your toes through your femurs, stick yer butt out, stand up fully. Go. You can even download an ap for your iphone for the Tabata intervals, and if you’ve never done squats remember that you do one every time you get on and off the toilet, nothing new.
Posted in: Blog