Date: November 21st, 2008
I’ve been out wandering a bit in search of new ice, but not much success. Normally this time of year I’m climbing a fair amount, but there isn’t all that much ice in at the moment, or at least ice I haven’t climbed. I’m always up for climbing just about anything, but given a choice I’d rather wander the woods in search of something new than climb something I already have. So more wandering will take place!
Training: Good gym sessions. Spoga, offset pulls, bouldering, lots of laps up and down the wall locking off on every hold and reaching up, some front lever training. It’s going.
I hope it’s game on wherever you are!
Posted in: Blog
Date: November 15th, 2008
Had a wicked session in the gym today (well, yesterday as it’s late at night now), and a decent one Wed. Plus I did some solid logging recently, very nice dry wood from standing trees with Keith, and scored a whack of wood from Alpine Precision Tree Removal (Thanks Jeff and Chad!). The picture is of me being a tree hugger, all proud of the very dead tree that went down cleanly. Oh, cutting that thing up and then splitting it was a bad-ass workout too–knotty-ass tree, I had to resort to the new chainsaw a couple of time to win. Kinda weak but that’s how it goes sometimes, all of it is very nice firewood now. New saw required a new chain too, knowing how to sharpen ice tools does not translate directly to sharpening chain saws. It is possible to remove too much of that little tooth that sets the depth of the cut. Bought a guide thing.
Training Wed: Good warmup, then bouldering, then kinda got psyched to work with the Vsion Junior Team for a bit on some skills, then blasted myself on the system board for body tension and power moves. Wicked.
Training Friday: Solid warmup, sent some problems that had been beating me down, wore my soft skin out then got on the dry tool campus board. Big offset pulls, new season record (I’ll take any victory I can get), half levers, worked. Full Spoga set in there too, never stopped moving except when I had to gasp like a new-born for breath. Love that.
Plus wrestling a couple of tons of wood, some walks with live weight on my back. A good week, beat some long-standing office stuff into at least a stand-off, the kind of work that just keeps piling up and piling up then it’s really late so it’s even worse to deal with so I didn’t until this week. Lame, but fixed now.
Posted in: Blog
Date: November 12th, 2008
The ice season is on around here, but the temps have been really warm. Only the relatively high and north-facing ice (Ranger Creek, Replicant, etc) has stayed in. The last month has really reminded me of winter in Colorado–highs above freezing most days, warm enough to rock climb in the sun, a few degrees below freezing at night at most, pretty stable weather in general. While this has been pleasant, it’s not right for mid-November in the Canadian Rockies. It rained here in Canmore last night, and the most snow we’ve seen this season was in August. WTF? I’ve decided “global warming” is a misnomer; what the term should really be is, “Weather Fuckitedus.” It may be colder, warmer, windier, wetter, dryer, sunnier, cloudier or just generally totally unpredictable compared to any pattern you might once have recognized.
Training: It’s fallen apart a bit due to weather-induced lassitude. It’s hard to get really psyched to mixed climb when it’s sunny and plus five, or raining. But these little lulls often lead to better results in the end. I’m likely tired from all the mad travel, and my motivation is the first thing to suffer when I’m not fully in the game mentally. I expect things will come back with a vengeance here shortly. Over the years I’ve found that pushing through demotivated periods often leads to injuries, or severe and long-lasting demotivation. Better to focus on things in life that need to get done, stay healthy, train when the energy is there, and know that it will come back when it’s right. That was a hard lesson to learn for me…
Posted in: Blog
Date: November 8th, 2008
Yesterday I went for an all-time fugly walk in the woods. We went the wrong way repeatedly, mired ourselves deep in the debris of an overgrown logging slash, fell down, groveled, cursed and were rewarded at the end of this experience by not finding any ice to climb. But you know what? It was a pretty good day of it. This is what’s funny about climbing; you can not climb anything and still have a good day. If I’m working in the office and, say, the video editing system implodes it can ruin my entire day. But I can sweat and grovel for three or four hours in the mountains and it’s pretty fun. This just confirms my basic idea that office work is evil.
The day did end well when I scored a bigger chainsaw in good condition for a fair price. This things should wail through the bigger logs with aplomb (can you use a word like that to describe a chainsaw?). I had a dream last night that I used it to quarry a huge cave in my back yard, it was going through solid rock like butter. This is likely a man dream that women will not relate to, but I was stoked, sad to wake up and find out it wasn’t true. My backyard is cobbles for at least a hundred feet of depth anyhow.
Training: See above, with some time spent hanging by the tools in the garage. Getting stronger!
Posted in: Blog
Date: November 5th, 2008
Every so often my home gym, the Vsion, has a bouldering comp. All the local climbers rejoice not just because the comp is fun, which it is, but because the new routesetting means a total reorganization of the holds on the wall, and a lot of new boulder problems. Something like 50. Yesterday I went in with Scott, and we started on the easiest, 1, and worked ourselves up to about 35. Yeah, it’s not the best mixed training but it sure was fun! Lots of big hold jug pulling and body tension, I feel it today after the relatively lower-angled climbing in Poland.
Then my friend Keith and I went and chopped down some dead standing trees as part of Firewood Quest 2008. This is undoubtedly the most dangerous thing I do; I don’t know shit about chopping trees down, so we’re making it up. My favorite line from yesterday was, “Keep running!” from Keith as I headed out of the danger zone. It was a big tree, and not really going the direction I’d have liked it to… Some kind of workout for sure.
A few interesting bits from friends:
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The Coldsmoke powder festival is on again for Nelson. I can’t imagine any sort of cold smoke coming out of Nelson given the astounding ability of the locals to create hot smoke. Wait, I think that means powder, not greenery. A really cool event by all reports, I’ll be heading there this winter to get my ski on.
Finally, Obama, as anyone who doesn’t live in solitary confinement knows, is the president elect in the United States. Politics generally just piss me off (I’ve got a degree in political science so it’s an educated annoyance), but this is genuinely cool. Finally a slim majority of Americans got their heads out of their asses and voted for something different. I say that as a part-American; nothing is more frustrating than watching a country you know reasonably well go so wrong for so long. Maybe Obama is just another pawn of the powers that be, maybe not, but I am damn glad he’s president-elect and not McCain. On the other hand, a bunch of states voted for anti-gay marriage ballot measures, so fear and loathing of the “different” is still alive and well. I can’t fathom the fear and small-mindedness of voting against allowing someone else to marry someone he, she or it truly loves. With all the problems in the world, so many children in pain, so many people suffering, gay marriage is worth spending millions to fight? Shame on those who would rather spend money on fighting for fear and intolerance rather than helping others.
Posted in: Blog
Date: November 3rd, 2008
Poland:
Leave Calgary at 6:00 p.m., change planes a bunch, (you know you’ve spent to much time in airports when you know which lounge to go to at the Frankfurt airport, and recognize some of the servers…), get off last plane in Krakow, Poland. Surprisingly, it looks pretty much like Germany or something. Massive construction, nice houses, very Western European feel. Locals drag me off to dinner in the nicest wooden building I’ve ever seen, then somewhere else, and then it’s 7:00 in the morning and I’m drytooling up the side of an obscure quarry so jet-lagged I can barely lift my tools. But it’s fun. The weather is supposedly too shitty to go alpine climbing in the Tatras, then the sun comes out and we go sport climbing in another quarry somewhere.
There’s a really obvious cool roof crack line, but I end up on some bouldery 7a (11d) in the shade and fall off in a frozen haze. Then it’s onto the roof crack, which the local master (serious master–this Micah dude can PULL) absolutely hikes without jamming once. I spool up, fall off the opening move before I even get to any bolts, laugh, then trash my hands in the crack ’cause if you don’t jam it’s 7b+ or something. I jam like a mofo on the serrated edges and get to the anchor with everyone asking me exactly what the hell I was doing with my hands in the crack–“there are no holds in there?” Then we meet more great people, do an impromptu movie night with the best scotch I’ve ever tasted, and then drive somewhere else and then it’s off to bed in a haze.
Morning strikes (it doesn’t rise when I’m jet-lagged, it strikes me in the forehead like a snake), and it’s more driving. Somehow, despite the distances never being more than a few hundred K, we drive hours and hours each day. This time only drive an hour, and then ride a tram up into the Tatra Mountains, which are incredibly beautiful peaks. My handlers tell me these mountains are small, not so nice, not so many good climbs, etc. By the end of the trip I figure out that if anyone in Poland says something is going to be not so nice then it’s going to be great. It’s a national characteristic among Poles to talk down everything Polish. Sort of Canadian in a way, I feel right at home. I also suspect there was some serious sandbagging going on with the grades, but payback on that one will be fun when the team comes over to Canada.
Anyhow, we hike up to the top of a peak from the tram, and it’s just gorgeous. I spy a long granite ridge running off into the distance and immediately have to do it, it’s just too cool looking. My handlers decline my offer to come, and we have no rope anyhow, so it’s a solo game. One side of the ridge is in beaming sun and so warm I have to take off everything, the other side is -10 with ice, snow, and frozen turf everywhere. After cruising around some rocky bits I’m into some mixed on the north side, and go for the crampons. Unfortunately they aren’t in my pack. All I have is a huge loaf of bread, two pounds of cheese, an empty water bottle, and an mp3 player with broken headphones. I do have one ice tool, so I keep going, ripping my hands up some more jamming in the cracks with added force ’cause, well, I don’t have crampons and falling off would be bad. It’s a mega couple of hours of breathing hard, going the wrong way, going the right way, climbing past rap anchors, being horrified on the dry sunny grass, being horrified on the frozen grass, and eventually making it back to the tram after one of the coolest ridge traverses I’ve ever done. Yep, these Polish Tatras are not so nice… Lying Poles, these mountains are fantastic. There were some really nice mixed lines to do if one had two ice tools, some crampons, some gear, a rope and a partner. But no complaints, absolutely a great afternoon of it.
Then it’s off on a mad tour of Poland for the Black Diamond slide shows. My translator (Adam) can climb 8c, the guy I’m doing the shows with has done 13 of the fourteen 8,000m (Piotr) peaks, then there’s me stuffed in the backseat for at least five hours a day between gigs. I’ve driven all over the world, but I gotta say that the Polish roads and drivers are far more engaging than I’d expected. The shows go well, nobody dies on the road, and we’re back in Krakow in one piece. Adam suggests we visit a local crag that’s, “Not so nice,” and of course it’s a great little crag with perfect grass at the base. We would KILL for a crag like this here in Canada! One more show and then it’s off to the after-event party, where I survive one of the all-time greatest attempts on my life. Many people have tried to kill me in foreign countries with drinking games, but this was seriously a world-class effort. I had to use every Jedi mind trick I knew to make it out alive, and still the next morning barely qualified as “alive.”
My overall impression of Poland is nothing like what I’d expected. I grew up listening to the radio reports from Poland in the late seventies, when Lech Walesa was leading strikes and the government was pretty aggressive to the people. But what I found was a country a lot more like Germany and Austria than the other countries I’ve visited in the former “east” European block. Construction everywhere, good infrastructure (good in general, the roads could use some more time in finished state and less under construction), and a generally optimistic people. The “communism” years are ancient history for anyone under 30, and many of the older people simply don’t want to look back. I kept digging for information about what the country was like when I was a kid and hearing about the strikes on the radio, but it’s a chapter of life that’s just less interesting for the Poles than the future. I admire that outlook, and the results show in the country. The Tatras are fantastic and worth visiting again, there are some really big walls with mixed routes to do (maybe already done, no idea, but they look great).
My deepest and sincere thanks to Michal, Adam, Maciev (sorry, you’re welcome at my house anytime but I never did figure out how to spell your name!), all the Piotrs and the many stellar people who put us up in their houses and truly went out of the way to help me have a great Polish experience. Sometimes slideshow trips are pretty industrial; this one had industrial moments, but it was without a doubt the most enjoyable week of travel I’ve had in a long time. I know I’ll see some of the people I met in the future, either at my house in Canada or around the world somewhere. I look forward to that. And if some of my hosts show up at my house I’ll do my best to show them some things in Canada that, “Aren’t so nice…” Right. Thanks also to Raphael for recording the video segments for the shows in Poland, they worked well.
WG
PS–Training: Two days of sport climbing, one day of mountain beating, one day of gym climbing/training, some hiking. Not ideal, but I feel pretty good about getting all that in while on the road so much. Back at it here now!
Posted in: Blog
