Careful at the top…

February 27, 2013
Will Gadd
Everybody thinks it’s the bottom of the free-hanging or free-standing ice features that you have to be the most gentle with, but they almost always break catastrophically at the top, where the tension is the greatest, and where there is the most mass to damage a climber… Be delicate up high, and never place ice screws into free-hanging or even smaller free-standing pieces!
Looks like you have to cut and paste the link into your own browser to see the GIF in motion, which you should definitely do–scary!
http://24.media.tumblr.com/db7090a153e0f6cb0bc6cf556ecac818/tumblr_mii9ezrfGp1rsy34co1_500.gif
24.media.tumblr.com